In General...
It's getting rather late in the year, and so your thoughts ought to be focusing on putting your trees to rest for the winter. That means no fertilizing, nor pruning, nor wiring or repotting. These are activities that require your trees to be actively involved with life rather than focusing on going to sleep, which is, of course, what they are getting ready to do. However, do be vigilant about watering. Though trees will require much less moisture than when they are actively growing in the spring, summer and early fall, they will still require some. The "turning of the leaves" in nature is a clear indicator that less water is required for a healthy tree.
If, in September, you did do some repotting, which wasn't really recommended, you want to make sure that adequate moisture is present. Even though your tree may appear to be resting for the winter, ...until it actually freezes in its pot, root growth will continue, though not at the rate that you would see it happen in the spring. So keep that soil moist.
For those of you who are relatively new to the hobby, be sure to pick up one of the flyers on "Overwintering Your Trees". A limited number of these will be available at the meeting. If you can't attend, visit the article on the web site in the "Archives" section.
Be sure to plan some strategies for dealing with hungry mice and rabbits, if these could be a problem in your area. Rodent poisons are available in a form that is waterproof for trees kept outside; rabbits appear to be lazy by nature: they won't jump a 2' fence unless they are absolutely desperate. 3' tall chicken wire, temporarily installed around your overwintering plot, is a good, inexpensive deterrent. Deer can be discouraged by hanging up small bags of "human hair" - see your friendly barber or hair dresser, or your long-haired neighbourhood friend.
Hardy Evergreens And Deciduous Plants
Tuck them in for winter in a wind-protected location, using whatever method you know works for you, or use a method suggested by Reiner Goebel in his article in the "Archvies". Anticipate the rodents and rabbits and deer - see above suggestions.
If warm spells do occur during the winter, make sure your trees stay moist - apply snow or water, whichever is appropriate at the time. Remember also that snow is a great insulator for your trees. By all means, pile it on the trees, but be careful not to break the branches with excessively wet or heavy snow. Fluffy, light snow is best.
Tropicals
If you've kept your tropicals outside this long, you've really been pushing your luck. Bring them in, because they don't like the cold!
Remember that the inside air of your house or apartment is considerably drier than the outside air that they have become accustomed to over the summer. It is prudent to make sure your trees have ample water, and a daily misting from a spray bottle will probably be appreciated by your plants. Providing a moist atmosphere can also be accomplished by placing your pots on a bed of moist/wet pebbles in a tray; the damp microclimate will be appreciated by them.
Some varieties of ficus trees will lose all of their leaves when climatic conditions change radically, such as when you bring the trees inside. It may take several weeks, perhaps even a month or two, for new growth to begin again. During this period of rest, be sure to keep your trees well watered, but not overwatered!
So, ... how do you know when that tree needs more water? Experiment a little. There is a distinct difference in the temperature of soil that is dry and that which is moist. Try it out. Touch the dry soil in a pot (you know it's dry because you haven't watered it and the plant in the pot is dead!) Touch the moist soil in a pot. You know it's moist because you watered it yesterday, and the plant in the pot seems happy, and a bit of soil wants to stick to your finger.
Soil which is dry feels warm (room temperature warm); soil which is moist feels cold. Simple. No expensive gadgets need to be bought for this test, and it is reliable. Unless you're growing swamp plants, your soil should always be allowed to dry out a little before you give the plant more water - "a little" really doesn't mean more than a day.
If you are fortunate enough to have a small greenhouse into which to move your tropicals, you may find that within a day or two of having come inside, the soil in your pots gets covered with a hostile-looking layer of white mold. What to do? An inexpensive solution for mold and mildew problems is to take a half teaspoon of baking soda mixed in a liter of water; spray this solution onto the soil and your plants, while you're at it, and watch that fungus disappear. don't go overboard on the quantity of baking soda! Air movement with the help of a fan or two will also avoid the problem in the future, and should be "a given" for the whole greenhouse cycle!
|