Photographic Record Keeping
by Jean Charing
Photographic record keeping can be both a pleasure and a chore, but even
when it is a chore it is well worth the time spent on doing it, and with
today's cameras, it does not have to be an expensive process or exceedingly
labourious. I have switched to digital, but most of the suggestions I
will make about taking pictures are applicable to both of the
traditional media, slides and prints, as well as digital. What you need
to start are the following: camera, plain background (blank wall, cloth
or board), a cloudy day or a large garden umbrella for outdoor shots,
two lights for indoor shoots. If you are using a digital camera,
another useful item to consider is a card reader for the type of memory
that your camera uses. This will plug into a USB port on your computer
and you can take your memory card in and out of it without worrying
about wasting camera battery power and the card appears as a drive
letter (generally D:, E: or F:) on your computer. If you're running ME or
a later operating system, your computer should find the card reader
automatically. On older operating systems you will need an installation
disk with drivers, but once installed it works as with newer operating
systems.
I use a 2.1 megapixel Canon Elf, but any good quality 2.1 megapixel
camera will give you good quality 8 x 10 prints and images that will
look good on a 21 inch monitor. If you don't own a digital camera and
are thinking of buying one, I would suggest that you buy a name brand
with a good lens and lower resolution, rather than go for the camera
with highest resolution and a lens of unknown quality. My only regret,
is that my camera has only 3x optical magnification. Do not confuse
optical magnification with digital magnification which, chances are, you
will never use. For bonsai record shots, I must admit I love digital.
You have instant gratification and you can take as many shots as you
like without incurring any extra costs.
Outdoor Bonsai Photography
What you need is cloudy day ... just enough cloud to prevent shadows.
You can also create your own shade by using an umbrella or awning. You
need a table or stand on which to sit your bonsai and an unadorned
backdrop. This can be a plain sheet, tablecloth or a length of fabric
or a plain wall of the house or garage. You can also buy a bristol
board layout that is sold by stores like Grand & Toy or Staples, for
student projects. These boards are folded into three panels and are
designed to be self standing in non windy conditions. If you have a
fence, drape your cloth from it, use clothes pegs or clamps to hold it in
place and place your table in front of it. It is nicer if your cloth is
large enough to also cover the table, so all your background is the same
colour and your tree is the only focal point. What colour should your
cloth be? If you are only going to invest in one, I would choose black
velour. It doesn't show the wrinkles and most trees look great on the
black background. Another advantage of black, it doesn't show dirt
marks so readily. If you choose a white cloth, it must be ironed and
wrinkle free. The camera will really show the wrinkles and if you
happen to get that extra super stunning photo of your tree, you don't
want wrinkles ruining it. Also, if you choose black as opposed to
white, shadows will
not be as obvious and detract from the tree. When you print in
black and white, any shadows created by your light source will be less
noticeable. On a white background, the shadows will be parallel to the tree
trunk and branches - what is tree and what is shadow?
Indoor Bonsai Photography
This is more difficult, but often it is needed, especially if you have
tropical bonsai. I use a table in front of my fridge and use magnets to
hold the cloth in place ( a couple of super magnets from Lee Valley work
great. I clamp my lights on the back of the kitchen chairs and aim
the light at the cloth from a broad angle so the light does not hit the
tree. The idea is for the light from the side lights to obscure the
shadows created by the flash. Try to make sure that your cloth is flat.
Folds and creases will create their own shadows. Alternatively just use
your fridge if it is white or use a white wall. The flash should light the
tree, not the your side lights and here is where the optical zoom comes
in. Use your zoom and stand farther back from your tree. This will
reduce the 'wash out' effect that the flash can create when it goes off
too close to an object. Remember, you want to fill the screen with your
tree. If you choose to have a white background, you may find that your
flash will not fire. You can overcome this if your camera has a two
step shutter. Aim your camera at an object that is the same distance
from the camera as your tree, but out of the path of the lights, and
depress the shutter to set the focus and the flash, then without
releasing the pressure turn and take the picture of the tree by
continuing to depress the shutter the full amount.
Record Shots: Uses and Importance
Record shots are not only useful for design work, but are also nice to
record a history of the development of your trees. Pictures of what you
did or didn't do to a certain tree and when you did it and how it
responded, will assist you with decisions that you will make for other
trees. For record shots, it can be especially useful to put a marker in
the pot to designate what you think will be the front and take pictures
from all sides. More pictures are better when you are in the thinking
stage and the camera often sees things that you don't. And, while your
trees are sleeping away the winter, you can try some on screen styling
or designing of your trees with all your digital photos. Besides it is
as good a time as any to learn what your photo editor can do. Important:
If you are going to play with your pictures, always use a copy. Never
alter an original. If you do by chance start to alter an original, use
the file pull down menu and use the save as command and give the image a
new name. Most cameras only save pictures in the JPG format and after
several alterations and saves, you will find that you image gets
degraded. This is because every time you save an image as a JPG, the
image is re-sampled, so you end up with fewer pixels or dots of colour
and therefore, a poorer quality image.
Now that you have all these photos, you may want to think about a photo
editor and photo database program. I use ACDSee as my photo editor, and
prefer it to Photoshop. It is simpler to use and does all that I want
it to do 99.9% of the time, and if you have to purchase an editor, it is
much cheaper than Photoshop. Chances are a 'lite' version of a photo
editor came with your digital camera AND chances are it will do 90% of
everything you will ever want to do with your images. You may already
have a database for your trees. If it happens to be based on or in
Microsoft Access or if you can export tables in either a db2 or mdb
format, then I would recommend a program called CyPics which uses an MS
Access engine. (Each of these programs are under $55 Cdn). CyPics allows
you to relate hundreds of images of a tree to one tree record which can
hold such things as botanical name, common name, date of purchase or
source, potting and pruning data with dates. If you are comfortable
with working in a database such as Access, you can work with the tables
created by CyPics directly in Access and import your tables from your
old data base or link them to the CyPics database which is how I get a
lot of my information to show under each picture by using the power of
the Access update query. If you have never used an update query, BACK
UP your database before trying one. I am sure there are other programs
out there, but since I owned Microsoft Access, CyPics was a good choice
for me.
If you have taken your pictures with a 35 mm camera, either with print
or slide film, you will have to scan them to take advantage of the power
of computer editing, design, etc. Today you can purchase a scanner that
will scan prints for less than a $100, but to purchase a scanner that
will scan slides will set you back at least five times that or more.
Storing and Retrieving Your Photos
Like a collection of anything, storage and retrieval is an essential
part of any collection. If you thought you took a lot of pictures with
your SLR camera, you will find that with a digital camera, the number of
photos will increase at least tenfold. Unlike a scanned slide or
photo, the digital image from a digital camera will come with a host of
information, generally referred to as metadata. Metadata will include
date, time, camera settings, etc. This means, you have a record of the
settings that worked for you. It also means you can search for pictures
taken on a certain date or between certain dates and for this basic
sorting you do not need any expensive software. Like a collection of
slides or photos, digital pictures also require storage space. Today,
the cost of computer storage space has come way down in price. You can
add a second hard drive (120 gigabyte drive for $90) to your computer
and CD's are now $0.29 each if you buy them by the hundred and a CD -
R/W drive if your computer doesn't already have one, can be purchased
for under $50. These costs are not unfavourable when compared to the
cost of buying slide binders and storage sheets.
Hope this gives you some ideas and that you will take loads of photos of
your trees.

Outdoor with background cloth of a light coloured bath towel
taken on a cloudy day. Note how the tree stands out against the
background and that there are no shadows. Also note how the creases and
wrinkles in the towel show.

Outdoors with no background cloth taken on a cloudy day.
Note how the tree blends into the background.

Indoor shot using white unironed background cloth. Lights
aimed behind the tree. Note lack of shadow.

Indoor shot using flash only. Note the shadows from the
flash.

Indoor shot with black background using side lights and
flash. Even though side lights are not back far enough, shadow from
flash is minimal due to both lights and colour of cloth.

Indoor with flash and lights, but not using zoom. Note how
the shadow is increased and also bark detail is washed out.

Set up for indoor shots. Side lamps clamped to chairs,
cloth is held by magnetic clips to fridge.
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