Propagating Cuttings - A Photo Essay, by Dierk Neugebauer Given a little time and the right variety of tree, it is possible in a relatively short time (5 - 10 years) to produce several new trees from cuttings taken either in the spring, summer, fall or winter. The varieties that have so far worked best for me are elm, ficus, redwood, some maples, cypress, cotoneaster, ginko, and so on. I'm sure that there are many other varieties that could be used, but, time and space are always at a premium when it comes to growing bonsai trees from cuttings. Several factors ought to be taken into account beside the fact that it takes time to grow a tree. Here are some of them: 1. Cuttings fall into three categories, green, semi woody, and woody. "Green" cuttings are those taken when the tree is actively growing; their colour is naturally green, bescause the growth has not yet matured and turned the colour of the tree's bark. "Semi woody" cuttings are those taken in the latter part of the summer, when the "green" ones have stopped growing and have started to mature. "Woody" cuttings are those that have matured; they are harvested in the late fall or late winter. "Green" cuttings are generally easiest and quickest to root. 2. To encourage cuttings to grow toots, "rooting hormones" are generally used. The "jelled", liquid ones can be used for all of the above, according to the label. The powder-based ones are designed specifically for each of the above three types. The main difference between the various powder ones is the concentration of the actual hormone. It is reported that nurseries that can buy the actual hormones, can root anything, provided that the right quantity of hormone is present. The rest of us have to work with the above choices. 3. In rooting cuttings, the challenge is twofold: you must provide an environment that encourages root growth (that environment consists of: hormones and bottom heat); you must provide adequate atmospheric moisture to keep the cutting from dehydrating, and therefore, dieing. Commercially, it is possible to root cuttings without any type of growing medium or soil. Moisture is generally provided by a plastic bag or 'greenhouse" cover, as shown below. The importance of this cover cannot be over emphasized: cuttings without a "greenhouse" cover have failed to root for me at a 90% rate, whereas the same type of cuttings with moisture protection provided by plastic would root at a rate of 90% or better. 4. Fungus and mold are the downfall for cuttings we try to root. Therefore, preventing these is paramount. Do so by using a fungicide on a regular (perhaps daily) basis; again, see below for deails. 5. It is best to combat the potential fungus problems by using a rooting medium that is sterile; that is, it contains no soil. Soil-less potting and seeding mixes are readily available in the marketplace for nominal charges. Their main ingredient is peat moss. See the first picture below. 6. Resist the temptation every few days to tug on a cutting that you are trying to root to see if it in fact has sprouted roots - the theory here is that if there is resistance when you pull, it has roots; ther reality is that if it has tender roots, by tugging you are likely breaking them off! Don't even think of checking for roots before 4 weeks have passed, and then only if the tree is of a variety that is reputed to root readily! 7. Bottom heat is a real plus for rooting cuttings. You can buy an expensive heating mat or cable for this task (for about $30) or you can make a simple box with openings at the top and use low wattage light bulbs that provide bottom heat. If the cutting is likely to be difficult to root, I will always try the bottom heat route first! Last but not least, I derive a great deal of satisfaction each winter when I try to banish those winter blashs by starting some new trees! Of course, as time goes on, and summer turns into fall, there is always the problem of how to overwinter all of those newly minted trees. that's where TBS tree sales at our shows can be a real life saver! In order to root cuttings, use a soilless medium such as the above, ... ...or make your own by mixing fine peat moss with vermiculite, and/or perlite, and/or turface, such as in the above container. A planter tray with plastic cell pack inserts is what I like to use - here you see the tray ready to receive cuttings. In order to increase the likelihood of rooting cuttings, a rooting hormone, such as one of the above should be used - be sure to follow the directions on the container. This willow leaf fig (nerifolia) is the willing donor for this project - it has too many branches and also too many volunteer grasses that are starting to take over the pot. One of the grasses has been unceremoniously janked out - despite this rough treatment, it looks quite healthy. You can appreciate that such a large root mass will severely rob the tree of its nutrient share. This is the same grass with most roots removed, and planted in a small pot to become a future accent plant. Notice the size of the ficus cuttings and the limited number of leaves that have been allowed to remain on each cutting - these cuttings are about 4 inches tall, and have been "cut" just below a leaf node - unneeded leaves have been removed - if left on the plant, they would just die off and rot. For this experiment I decided to use a liquid jell rooting hormone - you can see one of the cuttings immersed in in the jell. It's a good idea to use a chopstick or pencil to poke a hole into your "moist", soilless rooting medium for each cutting - one cutting per "cell". Here you see the prepared cuttings ready for their hormone treatment and planting. Cuttings should be sprayed regularly with a fungicide called "No Damp" to prevent fungus from forming on the cuttings. "Seed starters" will be very familiar with this product which prevents "damping off" of young seedlings. The product is available in all nurseries in small bottles. A rigid, clear plastic greenhouse-type cover is necessary for rooting to take place. It maintains the high humidity necessary to keep the cuttings alive until they have a chance to root, a process that will likely take from one to two months. For the duration of this process, cuttings should be kept moist and regularly sprayed with No Damp. Here is a tray full of rooted cuttings that are ready for transplanting into larger pots. Fertilizing should be started at this time. I tend to use a slow release pelleted fertilizer that is good for 5 to 6 months, thereby relieving me of the chore of remembering when to feed the plants again. This one application should do them for all of the summer growing season. Here is a crop of small leaved figs that were started from cuttings several months ago. Rooting cuttings can become an addictive winter activity - notice the variety of plants here, as well as the fact that they are kept in close proximity to "cool white" fluorescent lights. For maximum growth, cuttings should receive from 12 to 16 hours of bright light per day, ample moisture, both in the soil and the atmosphere, and ample warmth ... 25 degrees Celsius is just great for them. A two inch gap between the cuttings and the lights is desirable. If cuttings grow into the lights themselves, the new top growth will dry up. An assortment of rooted, planted cuttings and mini-greenhouse containers with the next crop. A closeup view of small leaved ficus plants that have grown about 5 inches over the course of the winter so far. You may wish to view the above pictures in colour at the TBS web site, at "http://torontobonsai.org".