Preparing For Spring Work In Toronto by Betsy Armstrong, first published: February, 1976 We are surely looking forward to the end of the cold weather when Nature will burst forth in spontaneous vitality. This coming season is extremely busy and very exciting to the bonsai grower. Firstly, our efforts are directed to removing our trees from their winter storage. I accomplish this task in several steps. In late March or Early April when the sun has a warm feel to it and the smell of moist earth is in the air, I open my cold frame during the day. The purpose is to acclimatize my trees slowly to the full effects of the weather. They are still within the pit which is below ground level so they are protected from the wind, therefore, this initial opening of the lid during the day is to accustom them to warmer temperatures. I close the lid at night if there is to be a frost. By the second week of April it is usually time to begin removing the trees from the total wind protection of the cold frame and placing them in their first position. The deciduous trees are placed in Direct Sun because they have no leaves yet and the sun will stimulate them to burst their bud casings. With the evergreens this is a touchy time because April can be windy so their needle foliage must be placed in an intermediary position of half sun, half shade. A lath house serves this purpose very nicely because it allows a dappled type of sunlight and more importantly, it protects from desiccating winds. By May the Evergreens can move to full sun where they should be to prevent their candles from extending too long. By late May, early June, the sun becomes too hot for the Maple leaves and other deciduous trees which then take their place in the dappled sun of the lath house. Throughout this season of temporary occupancy, repotting can be done. As we saw in the Bonsai film last month, the buds of deciduous trees should be bursting to open at the time of repotting. See illustration. The candles of the Pines are showing life when repotting should be done. See illustration. It is too late when the individual needles begin to show. Actually, it isn't that repotting cannot be done at this time. Repotting still can be BUT you must be experienced in knowing how many roots to remove when the tree is in this initial stage of growth. When the bud has burst open, the tree is committed to new growth and if you remove vital hair roots the plant does not have the resources to supply the new growth with the needed nutrients to sustain it. Even if done in a careful manner, you still take the chance of setting the tree back and the new growth won't reach its full potential. Now in some cases, you may want to accomplish just that effect. In other words, if you have a vigorous grower, this may be the method you would employ to keep its growth within bounds. It behooves the busy bonsai student, and we are all students of Bonsai, to have our tools cleaned and sharpened and our soil mix ready for this engrossing active season. In fact, while we are waiting for spring to arrive, perhaps we should assess our plants and decide Now which ones will need repotting, which should have the wire removed, and maybe even decide to plant one or two into the ground for a year to help thicken their trunks more quickly. HINT If your soil is not draining rapidly it means that your Bonsai will retain too much water during the Spring rainy season and the result will be leggy growth or unsightly long needles. So perhaps a repotting is in order for your tree this spring if you have noticed these symptoms last year. ANOTHER HINT Bright sunshine and restrictive watering in early spring results in tight compact growth. Nature is bountiful in the Spring. Don't let her overwater your trees.