The days are definitely getting longer, and that means that we will soon be retrieving our trees from their winter homes. Looking outside, however, would make us think otherwise. However, much can be done!
If you organized your records in January, as I suggested then, you might now focus on problems or issues that you've had with some of your trees in the past year. The club's library, the public library, and the internet are wonderful resources that can help you with problem solving. A good source for information on the internet are the various bonsai clubs and publications that can be found with the help of any of the several search engines that are available to the researcher. I might steer you to some of the many links found on our web site, but I'm afraid that they are in need of much updating - that is on this year's "to do" list. Can someone help with this task?
Hardy Evergreens And Deciduous Plants
Even though your trees are in hibernation mode, do not abandon them until the spring time. I've suggested that you do a monthly moisture check, especially if trees are stored under a roof or in a shed or garage. Covering them with newly fallen snow, as long as it's not water logged, is a good idea. As the weather warms up, the snow melts and keeps plant roots moist.
Molds and diseases should not be a problem in the winter, but pests might be. If you set traps, ensure that they are still functional; if you've set out mouse bait, make sure that it is still there and that it is dry.
Tropicals
With longer days and stronger light available for your trees, growth should definitely be getting a little more vigorous this month. More growth also means that more moisture will need to be provided.
Remember the need to rotate trees to the light so that even growth occurs - this should be a weekly event. If trees should be allowed to grow lopsided, the better part of a year my be required to train them back into a pleasing shape.
There is the need for greater vigilance at this time as well. Aphids and white flies may begin to multiply if they were not eradicated successfully in the fall before you brought your trees inside. Today's available pesticides are kinder to the environment, to us, and to the many pests we wish to dispose of. Depending on the insect variety (research is needed here) spraying may need to be carried out at regular intervals so that adults, juniors and hatching eggs will all be destroyed BEFORE they have a chance to breed.
I personally find that the greatest success with the above critters and many others is to use the following approach. Take a pail that is taller and wider than your infected tree is. Fill this pail with lukewarm water and add pure soap flakes (not detergent) at the rate of about 1/4 cup per gallon of water - I purchase a box of Ivory Snow pure soap flakes from the supermarket's laundry detergent section. Completely submerge your infected tree, pot and all, in this solution for a minute or two, and move the leaves and branches around a little to ensure that no air pockets can hide the insects. Remove plant from pail and drain. It has been recommended that the soap residue be washed off after half an hour or so, though I have never personally done this and have not found any ill effects on my plants from the soap treatment. If you do notice negative effects from not rinsing with clear water, try using somewhat fewer soap flakes the next time. In any case, this treatment will not likely do permanent harm to your trees. ...It might, however, be wise to try it out on one "insignificant" plant before exposing the whole group to the treatment.
Most sprays today are of the botanical and soap varieties. Keep in mind that when administering these poisons, that most insects like to reside on the underside of leaves and in the soil. The above procedure seems to get most of them. Remember, however, that many insect eggs will not be affected by this treatment. Thus there is the need to repeat the process.
If your soap solution gets quite dirty from this treatment, strain it through cheesecloth or some other porous material, store with a lid on it, and use again as needed, until the "contents" of the pail appear to be "somewhat gross looking", suggesting the need for a new batch.
Since insects are quite small, I find that when one or two plants in a room of several trees show signs of infestation, that the prudent course of action is to treat all of them, not just the obviously infested ones.
I have heard that fungal outbreaks can be controlled by inserting a couple of matches into the soil, business end first. The sulphur in the match head contains the beneficial ingredients. If you try this approach, let us know of the outcome.
|